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Well, the number one drawback to spending a lot of time in Machu Picchu is that there is no shade, and the sun at 8000 feet in this part of the world can be numbing. They can’t very well add shade – it wouldn’t be historically accurate. They wouldn’t, even if they could, because then people would linger and the place would get really crowded (and dangerous). So, after about 3 or 4 hours in the sun, even if you get there at 7 a.m. (we got there about 8), you’ve seen the whole main section.

There are other areas you could see, of course. Climbing to the top of Machu Picchu mountain (the real Machu Picchu – no one knows the name of the village we refer to as Machu Picchu) takes about an hour and a half, but then it takes an hour and a half down as well (the real killer). From the top, you supposedly can see a couple of other ancient ruin settlements. There’s also the sun gate, and there’s a hike that they limit to the first 400 people. That one’s pretty challenging. So arriving with a tour from Cusco, seeing Machu Picchu and returning the same day isn’t quite so stupid after all.

Under the “I thought I was wrong, but I was wrong” category: I booked us into Aguas Calientes (and Gringo Bill’s) for two nights. We got here mid-day Thursday, toured Machu Picchu on Friday, and left at 5 on Saturday afternoon. Unless you go to M.P. a second day, or do some  of the other hikes in the area,  or any of the other outdoor activities, that’s a lot of time to spend in Aguas Calientes because it’s very small and there’s nothing to do but eat, drink and shop. This is a pool hall (even a pool room in Gringo Bill’s), and a hot spring spa (Agua Calientes means hot water), but not much else. I planned it that way because I was worried about the weather. I didn’t want to take the trip of a life time and have it rain the only day we were there (it could have rained both days, of course). In fact, before we left Miami, the weather forecast for Cusco and area was for a  chance of rain.

Well, it didn’t rain. It was gorgeous. The perfect day. And the new forecast was the same for the next day, so I felt a little silly. But guess what? The next day started very overcast. I’m sure that the people visiting that day didn’t get the views that we did until at least noon. And at 3 o’clock it rained. I felt a little vindicated. It could just as easily been the other way around. And if it had, we would have gone the second day instead (or too).

Bugs. We took bug spray but didn’t need it. I saw one gnat the whole morning. But the next morning, I had four bug bites (mosquitos?) on my right arm. I could have gotten them in town (it’s alongside a river) or during the night (our room windows had gaps you could drive a truck through). So… who knows?

The Backpacker train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes was fine for us, even facing backwards. BUT the Backpacker from Aguas Calientes to Cusco (Poroy actually) was much less fun. It was in the evening so it was dark (no view), it took three hours instead of one and a half, the light was too dim to read by, and our seat cushions kept sliding forward, so that every fifteen minutes we had to stand up and adjust our seats. Next time, I’d take the Vista Dome from Machu Picchu to Cusco (but still the Backpacker from Ollantaytambo).

For you vegetarians, there is a Govinda restaurant in Aguas Calientes. And it was good, too, so you can be sure you’ll have something to eat. Lots of soy choices, etc. But we only ate there once. We’ve had no problem being vegetarian in Peru. Fewer problems  than in Argentina or Italy. And although it often takes a while to get your food here, it’s because they actually prepare and cook it from scratch. It’s fresh. And, at least in our 6 days eating in 4 different towns, well prepared.

Under the “What are the odds of that?” category: While walking down “restaurant row” in Aguas Calientes I ran into a fellow I had Spanish classes with in Guanjuato Mexico. What are the odds of that? He had given up on Spanish classes and said his Spanish was “rotten”, but he hasn’t been home (England) since we were in school together 3 months ago, and has been traveling in South America ever since, so he’s bound to have picked up a little.

The “Wasn’t That Nice?” category (a category we use a lot): Two things. First, the receptionist in Gringo Bill’s — Cindy. She was just so helpful. This is the kind of employee every employer wants. She helped us with everything. AND, since they weren’t full and had “suites” available, she upgraded us from a standard room to a Junior Suite (about $30 a night more) at no charge. That’s just good business. It didn’t cost them a penny more, but got them all sorts of good will from us (and a mention on a blog).

The second ”Wasn’t that nice?” was the person who served as chef,waiter, etc at Govinda’s restaurant in Aguas Calientes. As we were leaving, we asked him if he knew of a “lavanderia” (laundry) nearby. He thought for a minute, then said “this way” and took us up the hill and around the corner. Folks, he was the only person working in the restaurant (chef, waiter, etc) AND HE HAD CUSTOMERS. Wasn’t that nice?

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